Lisbon Sprawl Threatens Vineyards

Urban expansion threatens Portugal's sand wine

COLARES, Portugal, Feb 23 (Reuters Life!) - A small vineyard near Lisbon that has been producing world class wine for centuries is now struggling to survive the capital's growing suburbs.

The Colares vineyards are hidden among sand dunes on the coast which shelter the grapes used to make its unique wines from the strong Atlantic winds.

Then it is up to the sun, the sand and the sea to nurture the grapes which are turned into either a full-bodied low alcohol red vintage or a white wine blessed with a fresh aroma.

"Urban development has limited the size of our vineyards," said Jose Paulo Vicente, who heads Colares' Regional Wine Cellars.

He said Lisbon's development has cut vineyards to about 20 hectares from 1,000 hectares at the end of the 19th century.

"The sand wine is no longer a wine to drink but a wine to taste," Vicente said.

The village of Colares is one of the oldest wine domains in Portugal. The charming village rests in the foothills of the world heritage site of Sintra and faces the cliffs of the Cabo da Roca -- the most westerly point of continental Europe.

Sand wines made here became famous at the end of the 1800s for surviving the Phylloxera plague -- caused by the insect by the same name -- which laid waste to vineyards across Europe. It is thought the wine survived because of the sandy soil.

Yet, the fact that the village of Colares is located just 50 kilometres from the capital Lisbon is now also a curse. Sure, transportation is cheap and easy. But urban development is eating away at land that used to be available for vineyards.

"If there was more we would sell more," said Vicente.

The red Colares sand wine has a brownish colour and should be consumed at a temperature no more than 18 degrees Celsius. Its taste is a soft blend of nuts and red fruits.

The white wine is to be served at about 12 degrees so as to take advantage of the fresh aroma of the citron coloured wine.

Labels include the famous Arenae wine, the Colares Chitas wine and Colares Reserve. A bottle costs about $8 euros ($10).>